Louisiana Beaches and Into Texas

It was only a couple hours’ drive to Rutherford Beach – as Pearly recommended. It really was way out in the middle of nowhere – long, empty roads and not really towns. All the houses are up on stilts. I passed by some nature preserves and the road out to the beach was one lane and through a wetlands area, with alligators (I saw one on the side of the road!) and all kinds of birds. The beach is hardpacked sand and no problem to drive out on it. It is almost like a road on the inland side. There were a lot of RVs and vans lining the beach with decent spacing between them. I drove down a way until I saw a gap that looked like I could fit in, not too close to the people on either side. The water not only looked disgusting, but there were signs warning it was dangerous with high bacteria levels, swim at your own risk. Luckily it was too cold to swim anyway. The beach was pleasant enough, full of monochromatic shells. While it was not the prettiest beach I’ve ever seen, it was a beach and it had been far too long since I’d been on one. I was super happy to be there. There were even beautiful sunsets over the water! And the moon waxed full while I was there. It did get crazy windy, but it wasn’t too cold and it didn’t rain.

I took along the walk one sunny, windy day – it was lovely to be by the sea, even if the water was toxic. Lots of monochrome shells on the beach, and even those were a sight for sore eyes.

As I was walking, I passed a man, and he said hello. Somehow by that one word I could tell he was Australian and I guessed the owner of the super cool rig I saw drive in the other day. When I was returning, he was sitting in a beach chair a ways in front of the rig. When I passed him I asked if it was his rig. It was. And he was Australian. We got to chatting and I instantly liked him. It’s kind of hard not to like Australians, anyway, at least for me. They tend to be some of the most adventurous people on the planet. He took me back and let me have a look inside his rig. It was an OKA – named Wombat. It took him a few years to have it custom built to his specs. It was awesome, gigantic tires, as high as a semi truck, but smaller inside than Rita. It was made to go anywhere. He had it shipped over from Australia to Santiago, Chile and he’s been driving up since then. Benny offered me a beer and we sat on the beach and chatted a while. Aussies are always great story tellers!

Unfortunately, he didn’t have a great experience passing through Mexico, I was sad to hear that. He got stopped a lot and taken advantage of for very large bribes. He also got stopped in the US as well, and thinking he was doing a good thing, he jumped out of the rig with all his paperwork. The policeman drew his gun on him and yelled for him to drop what he was holding and put his hand in the air. All his rig paperwork blew all over the highway. The policeman, hearing the accent, luckily did not shoot (and luckily, Benny is white) and came to understand that Benny didn’t know the customs in the US when it comes to law enforcement. Luckily it all worked out and the officer helped him retrieve his paperwork from all over the road. We hung out for the afternoon/sunset/moonrise and told stories. While it was awesome to have a new friend, I was still on the quest for enough alone time. I declined the invite for dinner but invited him to come over in the morning for breakfast. I had ingredients and felt sure I could rally to cook for someone! It had been a while. But I was up to the task and pulled off a cheesy veg omelet with sausage and satsumas. It felt good to feed someone else for a change.

I was heading off that day making my way down to the south for the dog sit. I had a Boondockers site reserved near another beach. Getting there involved taking a ferry across – saving a lot of driving up and around. It was just a 15 minute ride and cost $1. I had to pull up the very narrow gangway and back into a spot. The dockhand helped direct me and I did it like I knew what the hell I was doing. As I sat there, I realized pulling back off the ramp I came up on was an impossibility given where I was, there was no way I’d make the turn. In a bit of a panic, I called the deckhand over and told him this and said I thought I should pull up and back in a little farther over… He said “well you won’t be needing to make that turn, since you’ll be driving off the other side of the boat”. DUH! I had a good laugh and clapped my hands with glee. It was all very exciting for some reason. I’m easily entertained.

See Rita and I on our first boat ride!

It was a decent drive all along the water and over a lot of bridges and through interesting territory with oil refineries and such. Definitely a much different scene than I’ve ever been in. There were tons of houses on stilts, pretty much ALL of them. Seemed very “Texas” – “I want to live here and nothing can stop me! So what if it floods all the time? I’ll build my damn house on stilts!”. I even saw a church on stilts. Some of the homes appeared to be missing any way to get to them. Oops? Maybe they carry the stairs with them? Definitely cuts down on burglaries.

When I finally got to the spot I was supposed to stay, I was hot, sticky and feeling annoyed. Partly because the loop street it was on had 2 places with the same number and of course the GPS took me to the wrong one. When I finally got to the right one (by looking at the listing pictures and looking for matching houses) I realized it was really just a grassy plot of land. The houses in the pictures were other people’s houses and the owners of this land were not there, just offering it up for parking. The grass was tall, the ‘driveway’ was narrow/grassy with deep trenches on either side and it was hard to see, easy to drive off into the ditch, I thought…and I was supposed to back in. Also, while I was maneuvering around in the grass, horrific little flies were biting me and they hurt a lot – I hadn’t experienced those elsewhere! So, I was screaming, slapping myself and trying not to drive into a ditch. Not a great combo. I closed all my windows (which made it even hotter) to try keep out the biting demons. I abandoned the backing in project and decided to just drive down and see what the beach was like. It was kind of disgusting. Parking on the beach was only allowed if you searched out some local business to buy a permit. Not much of a beach, roiling, angry waters and big brown waves, dark, ugly sand, so windy, and mean, bitey flies. Every part of me was wanting to leave this place. I kind of hated it.

Since it was only around 2:30 pm I decided to press on to Galveston Island – there seemed to be some free overnight options and it was less than an hour away and would make my next journey that much shorter. I called Benny, since he was also on the road and was curious to know what the place I was headed to was like. I told him it was awful and I was moving on. I ended up taking the next ferry, much bigger and longer than the first one (and free!). Once we got underway I got out of Rita to check it out. I immediately saw dolphins swimming up to ride the bow wake! That was pretty cool. But it was super windy and there was a lot of spray. I saw enough and went back inside Rita for a snack while we finished the crossing.

I had a moment of panic when we were exiting, I thought Rita wasn’t going to start again! Could you imagine?! But she did, and it was a simple and orderly process to exit the ferry. It was a very short drive to the parking area that was available for overnighting. It was the very tip of Galveston Island and just a big, paved lot. It was kind of nice, breezy and open. You could see ships passing by and it was very park-like. Much preferable to the last option!

There was a sand road along the beaches, I had tried to drive down to see if there were other areas to park, but there where huge puddles of unknown depth and after braving a few of the smaller ones. I finally turned back when the entire roadway was covered in water. Getting Rita stuck was not something I was at all curious to experience. Benny had caught the ferry just after mine and soon caught up with me in the parking area. He had been to Galveston before, and said the sand road went all the way around back out to the main road and he thought there were other options for parking. I told him I had tried to go down but gave up. He said ‘Hop up into the Oka, and we’ll check it out!”

Check out my ride in Wombat!

That was pretty exciting – first of all it’s as high up as a semi truck. I had to step on the hub of the wheel, grab a handle on the door and then step up to a step on the floor level and grab another handle and swing myself into the passenger seat, which of course was on the left side of the cab! It was a fun little excursion and the Oka barely registered a bounce through all that crazy sand road and deep puddles. Unfortunately the end did not allow overnight parking, and the restaurant he remembered there was closed (off season!) and we determined that the parking lot on the point was the best option.

When we returned, Benny suggested we go to a steak house he knew of – his treat. How could I resist? I put on something a little more decent and we were off. A real Texas steakhouse – complete with dead animal heads mounted on the wall. I had a lovely steak and a nice local beer. The conversation flowed. Afterwards, we decided to check out the pier, which had rides and lots of pretty flashing lights. We weren’t allowed out on the pier with out a wrist band. Benny insisted on treating me again. We walked to the end and checked out all the rides. I somehow ended up getting completely soaked while walking under the log ride. That was fun…luckily it was not cold out. I went into a restroom and dried off as best I could with paper towels and had a good laugh at myself.

Benny took me through Galveston and showed me the old town area. I located an ice cream shop and we stopped and had brownie sundaes. It seems Benny loves ice cream as much as I do! I appreciated the tour – a lot more of Galveston than I would’ve seen on my own. So many big old houses. It could be a fun place to spent a bit more time one day.

Back at the parking lot, we said an early good night. I was planning to leave super early in the morning and Benny isn't much of a night owl.  A lot of weather was coming in and it looked like if I started driving south early, the storm and I could pass each other as it was heading north. I was not keen to drive a lot in the rain.

I woke up super early and had a run around the point. I was ready to roll. I called Benny (who said he was always up super early, one of those morning people I’ll never understand). He came out and said goodbye. He was heading to Houston to find a place to store the Wombat while he went back to Australia to work for a bit. He was a retired captain of huge tanker ships – but he was returning to do a bit of work for a few months aboard a ship.

I drove as far as Port Lavaca to an HEB (grocery store) to do some shopping and get some work done (big shopping centers often have decent cell service). I’m not a fan of the HEB stores, but I got a few things I needed. The cell service was not great, either. And while it was not sunny, it was not storming... yet. It seems the weather predictions were a bit off. I headed across to a coffeeshop with wifi, so I could get some work done. It was here that I also learned what a “brookie” is. A brownie with a chocolate chip cookie baked on top. The girl assured me that having it heated up was the way to go. It was far too sweet, but it seemed to disappear. I got some work done, and while I was having an emergency tech support zoom session with a client, the rains finally kicked in. I, of course had to walk back to Rita, with my computer, in the pouring rain. So much fun.

My plan had been to spend that night on Magnolia beach. iOverlander said there was 2 weeks free camping allowed, they have bathrooms and showers (I never saw inside them) and trash barrels. It was only about a 30 minute drive, and the rain stopped by the time I arrived there. It was so nice there I decided to stay 4 nights. I had thought I would go to the Padre islands on my way to Mission, TX for a dogsitting gig. I had been looking for someplace warmer to go, and this couple on a cruise in Italy was desperate for some help. Their housesitter ended up needing to leave for unexpected surgery. We had a zoom meeting and they decided I would make an acceptable replacement. I was looking forward to being in a house for Thanksgiving and having some furry little, four-legged companions.

I tore myself away from Mag beach when the water was looking clear and the sun was shining down…but I had to move on.

Abby and Vinnie’s owners are on a cruise in Italy. They had Anne housesitting (her 2nd time here) but unfortunately, she was having complications with some past hip surgery and needed to get in for another surgery soon. So that’s where I come in – to relieve Anne so she can go off for her surgery. As you can image the dog parents were more than a little stressed over this development, but luckily, as they were looking for someone willing to come over Thanksgiving week, I was looking for a warmer place to land for a week! I met Anne the day before she was to leave. She showed me the ropes of the house and caring for the dogs. She took me to the pool and hot tub and introduced me to some of the neighbors she had befriended. I really loved meeting Anne! She is an amazing woman with some incredible stories from her volunteer work around the world and her life, living in Ithaca NY and California. We talked and talked and made dinner together that night. I got up early to wish her well on her trip and the surgery the next morning. Then it was just me and the dogs.

The first few days it was so lovely and hot there! I swam in the pool, enjoyed the hot tub, and took my bike out for a nice long ride. I was meandering around when I came up on the border fence. There I was, looking at the Mexican sky! I rode along the edge of the river between the US and the fence blocking Mexico. For some reason it was fascinating. But also, there were all these crazy pricker plants and I popped a tire. Flat as a pancake! I had to pop the bike up on the rear tire and walk it all the way back to the house. It was well over a mile and definitely made my arms quite sore. The next morning, I discovered a pricker had also gotten in the rear tire and that was completely flat as well! So grateful that one was a slow leak, 2 flats would’ve been a nightmare to get back with!

I founds a Sprouts Farmer’s Market (a chain that I have enjoyed shopping at in southern CA) near Mission TX – and I ended up ordering online and having food delivered. I found a coupon so even with a tip it saved me money on diesel (and time) from having to drive all the way out there. I got myself everything I needed to cook up a little Thanksgiving feast for myself. One of my favorite meals is my own version of stuffing, mashed potatoes and gravy. I just got a turkey breast (because, what would I do with an entire turkey?!) and hoped I’d be able to pull off the rest. I made chicken stock to help with the stuffing and gravy part – and it worked out. I had a huge amount of stuffing and it came out soooo good. There were even cranberries that Anne left and I made into sauce. My gravy wasn’t the best ever, but it worked. In the end I had a good 5 plates of thanksgiving dinner (not all the same day!)

I made spaghetti sauce, too.

I had a 3 hour excursion to bring my bike into a shop I found. It was kind of zoo-y out there and I stopped at a shopping center for a couple groceries I missed with the delivery. The bike place turned out to be right smack next to a DIY carwash, and I’d REALLY been wanting to wash Rita’s underside after all the bayou mud, beach driving and saltwater on roads, etc…but they didn’t take cards, so I needed quarters, which means I needed change and then I spotted a Mexican restaurant and I sure was hungry…and…REAL Mexican I’m sure, not TexMex crap…and I could get change…so I walked way down there and got some yummy food (def legit – enchiladas suizas and jamaica) and then washed Rita off and finally got back to the dogs.

I ordered a few items I needed since I was at an address for a bit.  The most important thing being the lifter mechanism for my MaxxAir fan.  It is the fan installed in the ceiling by the driver's seat.  It has never worked properly, at the top cover would never lift up.  When I was on Magnolia beach, I got up on the roof and removed everything to discover that part was shattered.  I found one for a good deal on eBay and the seller said he bumped up the shipping so I would be sure to receive it before Thanksgiving.

After thanksgiving, the weather turned gloomy and almost rainy. It stayed that way for months. OK maybe a week. But it was no fun, it was crazy windy, Abby (the lab) was shaking with anxiety (the potential for rain makes her worry there might be thunder…) and I had to give her meds to calm her down. I spent my days walking the dogs, feeding the dogs, doing my work on the 60” TV as my computer screen, from the super comfy electric recliner chair. And of course, eating leftovers.

The week went by quickly enough and soon the owners, Randy & Lori returned. They were super nice folks and I was glad I had been able to take care of their pups. I spent the night in Rita in their driveway.  Unfortunately, the part I ordered did not arrive and was stuck in limbo somewhere.  I left Randy & Lori $10 and they agreed to forward the small box on to my upcoming stay in Silver City.  They were also so kind to offer several nights if I had wanted. But with the gloomy weather and rain predicted, I decided to get back on the road and see what I could find. I saw there was a county part in the far west corner of Texas that allows people to camp for FREE as long as they wish, and they even have bathrooms, showers and water spigots. I had to see this for myself, it seemed too good to be true.