New York City to Chattanooga, TN
November 21, 2024
The leaves were beginning to change and the nights were growing colder and my will to exist was growing dimmer…as will happen in the cold weather. It was definitely time for me to begin the journey south and westward. I was certainly not going to make the mistake of passing another winter in the Northeast. I was excited to get on to the next projects and some fun visits along the way. I stopped through New Hampshire for one more visit with Scott and Adriane. They have had a challenging year, to put it mildly. Adriane is battling the aftermath of surgery and ongoing treatments for a rare form of sarcoma (click here for more info and to help out) among many other life stressors. I roasted them a chicken for dinner and popped it in a pot for soup the next morning – it wasn’t much, but I hoped I could make a minor dent in the mountain of stress, at least for a brief moment. That night was damn near freezing cold and my heater needed some maintenance I just wasn’t prepared for at that time. I woke up with an icy cold face to a pretty sunrise and I knew I had to make tracks south and fast!
I was excited for the next stopover – to have some time with my favorite niece, Kiyomi, who is starting her new chapter in New York City. Not an easy place to get going, and she is bravely giving it her all. I managed to get a place to park for free for 3 nights, in the small hamlet of Valhalla, just north of the city. The nose of the bus was literally 10 feet from the train tracks to take me into the city. I was looking forward to seeing my cousins, Don and Jo (on my Mom’s side) where Kiyomi was staying, as well as their ‘kids’ Eve (and Christine) and Amy (and Dave) – I hadn’t seen all of them in around 16 years (which, coincidentally, is the last time I was in New York City). I was surprised they were all able to get together on the morning I was coming into the city – they organized a wonderful brunch and it was so nice to catch up with them. I wished I could stay longer. (see pix in previous gallery post!)
The subplot of this portion of my trip was that my house batteries were on their deathbed. I knew when I bought the bus that they were around 6 years old, which is about as long as lead-acid batteries last. I was hoping they would just hold out until I got to Spencer, TN, where I was planning to do some major power projects. They must’ve seen it coming and lost their will to live. It didn’t help that my parking spot was under some trees and there was very little sun happening to juice them up. Their voltage dropped below 12 and the monitor that shows the % of battery life was just showing “- - -“, instead of a number. The 12 volt systems were limping along (this includes my fridge – which was flashing in distress and creeping up in temperature – mid 40s at this point). My DC system – run through my inverter – those are the normal plugs, to charge my computer, for example – was not functioning. When I turned the inverter on, an alarm would sound. This was distressing to say the least, but I did not want it to ruin my visit. I just hoped things would hold on a bit for 3 days.
I had a wonderful afternoon and evening running around NYC with Kiyomi and she took the train back with me to Rita. We were toasty under blanket and I got the heater to at least pretend to warm us a bit. I knew it needed some serious attention, but I just couldn’t deal with it when I was cold (this is a serious flaw I have…I don’t function well when I’m cold!). Getting to spend time with Kiyomi definitely warmed my heart, though. We spent the next day roaming around Valhalla, we had lunch in an iconic ‘upstate’ pub and there was a beautiful park in front of the dam. We found a way to hike up to the top of the dam and had a beautiful view of the lake and fall foliage. We said our goodbyes at the train in the evening – it was too fast of a visit, but I was so grateful we had it!
My next stop was supposed to be heading to Pittsburgh, to see my Aunt Rosie and my cousin (BFF) Becky was also coming down. I was really excited to see them! Unfortunately, I realized the issues with my batteries and heater made it a really bad idea to add 4 more days to the time it was going to take to get to Spencer TN/Wanderlust Waypoints (the place to work on projects!). I was kind of heartbroken, but it was the right decision to just get down there.
I had one last cold night, fretting about the fridge full of food – 45 degrees is too cold for me, but not cold enough for my refrigerator! I woke up freezing and cranky in the morning and buttoned things up and got out of there as fast as I could.
I had to figure out what I was going to do, as I had a meeting I needed to attend, and my computer was dead as a doornail and there was nowhere to charge it. The town of Valhalla proved to have no solutions. I finally decided I would just go to a Starbucks nearby/on my way out of NY. Seemed like a good solution. I found one on the map and headed over. Sadly, what had looked like a giant parking lot on the map (as is the norm at many shopping center coffee houses) was actually an apartment building with a private lot, and the Starbucks lot was tiny and very crowded. I didn’t even dare drive into it. I turned around and headed across the street and parked in a Burger King lot, that wasn’t much bigger! To my dismay, Starbucks were blasting music and it was very crowded. Luckily, I found a chair near a plug and set up my laptop. I was distressed, it seemed impossible to attend my meeting there! I had the delusional thought that maybe my laptop would charge from zero to 100% in the 40 minutes I had. Hahaha!!! I finally had to accept that I was having a meeting in a very loud place and I would just have to get quick with the mute button. The 90-minute meeting seemed to go OK and I was grateful I was able to focus my full attention on it. It was the lunch rush by the time I returned to Burger King, grateful to see Rita was still there and with no tickets or anything. Getting out of that parking lot was another story. I tried to figure out where I was going and I also needed to find a place to stop for that night. I decided there was no way I was spending another night without heat – it was going to be down in the low 30s that night. I wanted to book an Airbnb. The BK lot was so chaotic and I was getting really stressed out, so I decided to just put in my final destination in the gps (3 days away!) and get the hell out of the city – I figured there’d be a rest stop with sun and trees where I could catch my breath and figure out where I was going. I am less and less of an urban girl all the time.
It seemed to take forever to get someplace that felt calmer. There was a lot of traffic and eventually (after more than an hour or so) I found a place to stop – it was a gas station closed for remodeling and no one was there, and it was in the sunshine. I booked an Airbnb for the night in Pennsylvania and sent the message that I was coming in a 22 ft bus. I had a long drive ahead, so I got on the road as fast as possible. I was looking forward to a shower and a warm bed!
About an hour from my destination, I was tired and it was getting late fast. I decided to stop to fill up with diesel – my gas app said there was a Sam’s club not far off track, with the lowest prices around. I headed there, only to find the place was jammed with cars. I got in line to wait and inched slowly towards the pumps. I realized the pumps did not all have diesel. I jumped out to see what the deal was. I was in the wrong line. I had to get over to the far side of the station to the only 2 pumps that had diesel. A kind person realized what I was doing and hopped out of their car to help direct my back up and run interference with the other vehicles, so I could get out of line and over to the other side. Finally waiting in the right line! I eventually get to the pump. It says to insert membership card, credit card OR debit card. It seemed to be missing a critical AND between membership card and payment card – it was not at all clear anywhere that a membership card was *required*. So I tried a few times to put my credit card in until I realized the cryptic messages about not being able to read my card meant they wanted a membership card. Very annoying!!! I threw my hands up and got back in Rita to make way for the people behind me. At that same moment I also received the first message from my Airbnb host – telling me he could not accommodate Rita in his ‘free onsite parking’ and that *maybe* I could find something on one of the nearby streets…. No no no, this would not do!! The light was fading and it was still an hour drive to that location. To arrive and have no place to park was simply not an option! I pulled over into a parking space in an empty area of the shopping center lot. I was looking at options and realizing that I was probably going to just have to suck it up and freeze my butt off in a Walmart parking lot for the night. I was tired and in no mood to get creative. As I was looking on my phone, a car pulled up across from me and started waving at me. I figured it was some people interested in Rita or wanting to have a peek inside or something like that. I never in a million years would’ve guessed what was coming next!!
I extracted myself from the driver’s seat and went out the front door to see what they wanted. A kind looking woman said “Are you OK? Is there something we can help you with?”. I was very confused. I said “no, I’m fine …??” She said “Oh, we were behind you at the gas pump and noticed you didn’t fill up and then saw you over here, we were just wondering if you needed help”. Wow… I said “Well, I didn’t realize you needed a membership card, and then my Airbnb canceled, so I was just stopping to figure out what to do next”. Then this amazing angel said “Well we can solve that – take our Sam’s club card! And if you’d like we have a spare room and you are welcome to come and stay with us!” She assured me they weren’t weirdos! Which is EXACTLY what weirdos might say... but they didn’t LOOK like weirdos... I was stunned, fascinated, grateful and overwhelmed. I said yes without even hesitating! (partly because I was far too curious about what was going on to not find out -are people really this nice or are they in fact, weirdos? I just HAD to know). She handed me a card, gave me her address and phone number and said to fill up, get some dinner or something and then come on over!
I went back, filled up and then parked again to process what was going on. I googled the address to look at the neighborhood – just doing my safety due-diligence. It was about a 30 minute drive, and it was dark by now. I was operating in the dark on many levels. I just went. When I arrived, I parked in the visitor area of a nice neighborhood of tidy duplexes. I decided to just go in and say hi and be sure they still wanted me to stay, before bringing anything inside.
It was a beautiful home, Kristen and Rafael had just moved in a month earlier. They had a guest room ready to go with a big bed and guest bathroom. It turns out that Rafael is Venezuelan, so I got to speak Spanish. He said I speak with a Mexican accent. I felt proud of that. They were an amazing young couple who met on Tinder, and got married last year after dating for a year. They were so adorable together and I loved getting to hear their story. I could’ve talked with them all night, but a hot shower, bed and a little work were waiting for me. I couldn’t believe how kind and generous they were and how lucky I was to have met them. They even gave me a little capybara (they had a whole jarful! Without a doubt, the sweet and lovable capybara is this couple’s spirit animal!). I named him Etters (the town they live in) and gave him a special spot, keeping Chaco company, on the dash.
The next morning, I got on the road relatively early. I had booked a hotel for that night, great deal I found at a Red Roof Inn in Wytheville, VA. It was another long day of driving. I was fantasizing about turning the heat up and lounging in a hotel room for the night. And that’s exactly what I did. I set the heater at 82 degrees F, so I didn’t have to wear clothes or use covers…and I ordered some food from DoorDash. It was a pretty great night. I had a hard time extracting myself from that toasty room into the 35 degree weather the next morning, but one more long day of driving would get me to the promised land... Spencer, TN!
I arrived at Wanderlust Waypoints before dark, but just barely. I finally met the infamous Johnny Blayze, whom I had been corresponding with on and off for over a year (I originally thought I was going to buy a bus and bring it there and build it out myself from scratch. OMG I am SO glad that didn’t happen! I adore Rita and never could’ve built something like this myself). After a little chit chat, I immediately dug into the heater. I figured out what I had to do (remove a nut from the bottom, which was not easy to get to, had to disassemble a bit of it) to remove the nut and cleaned out all the built-up soot. I was able to get a small cleaning brush from the inside all the way out the bottom. I got it nice and clean, but of course I was black from fingertips to elbows (I saw that coming, hence why I didn’t want to undertake this task in a place without extra water and cleanup). But it was worth it, because I finally had a nice, toasty fire roaring in the heater that night.
The weather in the area was mostly total crap - it was gloomy and rainy much of the time, but it was definitely warmer than up north! Also, even when it was sunny, my spot only got a couple hours of sun per day at most. More than depressing, it was bad for my solar panels! When I first arrived, desperate for sun, I decided I had to go elsewhere for the day to park in the sun. I was about 30 minutes away from Fall Creek Falls State Park, which sounded nice. I hoped they had a big, sunny parking lot, and I could maybe see a waterfall or 2. We were in luck, great, full sun till after 4pm! I had a lovely mile hike and met a number of interesting people along the way. It was a good day for my soul and solar.
The biking was not the best either, but at least I got a few rides in. It was either straight uphill or straight dowhill. There was not one bit of flat anywhere within a few mile radius. So, I rode up and downhill a bunch. And I got to see cows, big hay rolls and some pretty trees.
There were a couple other full size skoolies at WLWP and one trailer, but I really didn’t see anyone for the first couple days. I found my way into McMinnville – the nearest functional town about 15 miles away. There was a Lowe’s and a Walmart, among other full shopping centers. I had some specific projects I wanted to complete there and I’d really hoped to get them done in 2 weeks time (since you pay by the week to stay there). I quickly realized there is no way I could pull this off myself, and it didn’t seem like there were really people to help out. I had thought it was going to be more of a community type setting with people interacting and working on things together. It wasn’t so much. I started to feel a little distressed and started looking around to maybe hire a local handyman to help me. Luckily, before that happened, I got to talking to Garrett, when he pulled up next to me to fill his water tanks in one of the big skoolies, . Turns out he knew how to do everything I wanted, and he was for hire! I think I caught him just in the nick of time, as they were planning to leave there.
I had a vision in mind of how I wanted to set up my shower, but I honestly had no idea how to execute it on the plumbing side of things. I had gone to Lowe’s and bought all the things I thought I would need (much of it with the help of a Lowe’s employee). I knew I could look things up and figure things out, but when it comes to cutting holes through walls and putting everything together, I knew my lack of experience would be a huge liability. I explained how I wanted everything to be in the end, and Garrett talked me through options and came up with an even better solution that I never would’ve figured out. In about 4 hours, (and maybe an extra trip to Lowe’s), Garrett had made my shower vision a reality! I was so excited!!! I kept it simple - instead of cutting a hole in the floor and running lines and a pump to get water to my grey tank, and waterproofing the entire bathroom (which would have been a very complex task indeed) - I got a collapsible laundry basin to use as my shower pan, and installed a shower curtain track around the ceiling. My Mom had made me a shower curtain for this purpose before I left Maine. I have a USB rechargeable pump I took off an outdoor shower kit and once I finish my shower, I can pump the water either out the window and into my sink, which will go to the grey water tank. Sure it's a little bit more work, but it's low maintenance and probably saved me around $1,000 I don't have anyway. I decided to shellac the entire bathroom which was just raw plywood mostly. This would make it a little water resistant, which I figured was all I'd really need since it would only be getting wet by accident (which I knew was inevitable...and would be cleaned up quickly). We ran the water lines outside the bathroom walls - next to the hot water tank. This kept the inside of the bathroom looking very tidy and no wood had to be cut or modified in there - just a hole in the wall to mount the faucet and wand hose. I was kind of giddy to see this whole thing become a reality -AND work as I envisioned. I love being able to take a hot shower (albeit a very quick one).
We then discussed the biggest imminent project- getting new batteries. I knew I wanted lithium batteries, but what kind? how many? how many amp hours? how to install them? These were overwhelming questions, while also knowing that there was no way I could physically remove the existing 4 lead-acid batteries, that probably weighed 60+ lbs each and were ensconced in a bomb-proof battery box (over)built by Rita’s creator, Craig (who is definitely not one to cut corners!) Garrett talked me through lithium batteries and I ended up finding a good deal on a lot of amp hours – and I ordered 3 – 300 amp hour LiFePO4 batteries. It was going to take them five days to arrive, and my fridge was getting hotter by the day. I used the common area in the ‘clubhouse’ to charge my computer and was enjoying the hot showers in a big bathroom. Garrett had the great idea to hook my batteries up to a charger, which gave me a few days of normal power and saved the food in my fridge. I also ordered a DC-DC charger – this device would allow me to hook up my batteries to a drive battery connected to the alternator, so that they could get charged while I was driving – and not only by the sun. This means that running the motor would juice up my batteries (driving or not) – this was something I’ve wanted from the start (and was a littler perplexed it didn’t already exist). On the boat, we had 3 ways to charge the batteries -sun, motor and shore power. I still do not have shore power, but that is the least likely way I will need to get power. Since I am usually not staying in campgrounds or places with hook ups very often, this is not a huge deal (and also pretty simple to remedy if I ever change my mind). The idea was to have enough battery power to run the air conditioner unit Rita has. I was thinking I would need more solar power as well, but after a bunch of number crunching, I decided to just keep what I had and see how it went. That plan saved me a lot money, and I can always change things up down the road. I just wanted to start getting an idea of what kind of power I was using/needed in reality and stop doing math.
Garrett got everything installed in a couple of days. He also changed out my door knob for a dead bolt - which seemed safer and more secure. And when I can get it to actually close all the way, it is...
I ended up making a few runs out to the Mennonite country store - which was a huge resource of hardware and parts, especially for solar stuff. The Mennonites don't use electricity, so they do have a lot of solar. Somehow that makes sense. I tried to learn a little bit about their lives -mostly online - and then by getting to observe and interact with them at the store. Super sweet folks, everyone I met!! I was fascinated with their dress (clearly mostly homemade clothing) and their horses and buggies. Many ride bicycles as well. The owner of the country store (which had hardware, food to order, homemade food/canned goods, furniture, rugs and other things made and grown right there) mentioned that on Saturdays, he makes biscuits and sausage gravy - one of my very favorite things. I was there on a Friday to get copper cables for my batteries/charger. Sadly, I didn't see how I would be making the trip back there the next day. BUT as fate would have it, copper cabling is WAY more expensive than I knew, and Mennonites don't take credit cards... It came to around $300 and I could only scrounge up $200 in cash. I was going to have to return the next morning, with enough cash for the cables and biscuits and gravy!! The nice guy helping me wrote me a receipt with partial payment and told me to just take everything and come back later to pay the rest. How trusting!!! I then had to take a trip out to the nearest ATM (about 30 minutes) in Spencer. I got back to WLWP after dark, tired but happy progress was happening!
I also got to know Andrew, the guy living in the trailer 'next door' to me. He was going through some rough times with his soon to be ex-wife, who was living with another guy. He had custody of some of his 9 children (3 were step and 1 was adopted). His 9 year old boy, Timmy, was around a lot. He was a super adorable kid who liked to show me tricks on the tree swing, and lent a hand whenever he could. Andrew was also super helpful with the battery install...yes, it took a village. I passed the most uneventful Halloween ever in that place... a little sad but I was resigned to just ignoring it all together. At least Timmy showed me his costume, which was scary in an adorable sort of way.
I finally got to meet Garrett's girlfriend. I'd tried saying hi to her several times, but we never struck up a conversation. I thought maybe she was shy, or snobby...but turns out she was Colombian! I was excited (and apparently so was she) to have conversations in Spanish. I guess Garrett mentioned to her I spoke Spanish and the next time I passed her we started talking immediately. I was sorry I didn't have more time to get to know Alejandra better, she was super sweet.
There were still a ton of littler projects I wanted to get done, but I was faced with either paying for a third week or putting projects off to another time. With the rain and the gloom, I really didn't want to be at that place another week. I was already getting itchy to get back on the road. I was excited about all the power (yep, it's true, that much power goes straight to your head! I felt unstoppable!) and wanted to get my batteries topped up to see what they could do.
I decided to head out on a Saturday, one day over the 2 week mark - I was waiting for one more order to be delivered on Friday. But I woke up to pouring rain on Friday and honestly, I couldn't take it. I decided to leave as soon as my order was delivered. I booked a boondocking spot in Chattanooga, just over an hour away. I was hoping to find one of the Dia de los Muertos celebrations supposedly happening there, and maybe get some socializing in. I looked up an event online and figured I'd just take an Uber there from the field I was parked in, just outside the city. Well, it turns out the event posting was from 2018 and I missed that little detail. I stopped at a local brewery, as I had a little time. This seems to be a thing I've kind of decided I like to do...I like trying beer and the local brewery and it seems a lot less weird to do that than to just go into a regular bar all by myself. At least it's a good excuse, I'm traveling, I'm interested in trying local brews...which usually is also a good conversation started with the bartender or other patrons. I met 2 lovely women at this place, which was a geology-based brewery that often has cats roaming around. I talked for a long time with Starla, a local woman who shared her very interesting life story with me. She used to be a chemical engineer, but came down with cancer quiet young. After treatment she was supposedly not able to have children, but she got pregnant. She ended up having her cancer return and had to get treatment again, resulting in a hysterectomy, so her daughter is her 'miracle baby'. She and her husband, and closeby family, are all thrilled - what a lucky little girl!
I finished my flight and my chat with Starla and headed out to find the DDLM festival going on in 2018... Had it actually been going on, I would've missed almost all of it, since I got super lost and wandered around the college campus for a couple of hours. When I finally found the location, which was literally just a field of crickets, I got cranky and just called an Uber to take me back to Rita.